Mulch and Drip Irrigation for Conserving Water

Mulch not only conserves soil moisture; it prevent weeds and soil erosion; improves the soil tilth; and protects it from temperature extremes.

Good mulch decomposes in a year or two and improves the soil. And needs to be reapplied. Examples are arborist’s chips, shredded leaves and compost Most bark mulch, like fir bark and beauty bark add a top layer that doesn’t break down to add organic matter, but instead sometimes creates a barrier to drip irrigation moisture reaching roots.

Different Mulches

  • Alder chips: Long lasting mulch with a uniform appearance . Wood eventually breaks down adding carbon.
  • Arborist chips: has small branches and leaves chipped by arborist and road crews. If you let it decay first it provides great organic matter. Adds both carbon and nitrogen. Rough appearance but great for improving the soil. Great in orchards and ornamentla shrubs and trees.
  • Straw: use in vegetable gardens and be on the look out for slugs and snails.
  • Sheet mulch: Layer about one foot of garden waste (no weeds that are going to seed). Dig a large hole for the vegetable transplants, add a quart of compost and plant.
  • Rotted cow manure: is mostly free of weeds and has a uniform appearance. attractive as top-dressing for perennials and vegetables.
  • Aged compost: excellent in vegetable garden and with flowers. May have weed seeds.

Spread mulch about 1 inch deep for vegetables; 2 to 3 inches for perennials; and 3 to 4 inches for shrubs and trees. Be sure to keep the mulch a couple of inches away from their trunks.

When adding powdered fertilizer to the beds of ornamentals and perennials add directly above the rotted cow or horse manure, or the rotted arborist chips. If you are using alder chips then pull away some of the chips to scratch the fertilizer directly into the soil.

Sheet mulch bed with seedlings in compost

Drip Irrigation

Photos of the Quimper Grange Food Bank Garden drip-tape and porous tubing.

Besides helping the environment by using drip irrigation, you can substantially lower your water bill. It’s possible to make back the cost of purchasing a system in one or two seasons. A great educational resource with how-to videos is Dripworks

Personally, I have been resistant to using drip irrigation because of all the plastic and the need for repairing cut tubing. But I’m ready to make the switch.

In ornamental gardens, drip emitters are frequently used to water individual plants. Keeping the tubing above ground is one way not to damage it while planting and weeding. A landscape spike dripper can raise the emitter off the ground.

Micro jets put out more water than drippers. This is useful for fast-growing, thirsty plants and for sandy soil. Timers keep everything on schedule.

Automatic Drip Timer

Growing Flowers and Meeting Their Pollinators

My attitude about growing flowers changed the day I visited my friend Renee at her cabin in the Santa Cruz mountains, California. At the time I was a twenty-three-year-old horticulture student. I sat at her kitchen table, eyeing the room, when I noticed a bouquet on the kitchen table.

It was an arrangement of fragrant flowers with lavender, roses, delphinium, and baby’s breath. My internal dialog commented, “Oh those are probably from the UC Santa Cruz Farm and Garden.” It was a dismissive thought. You can’t eat them, what’s the point.

Then it dawned on me—I had picked those flowers and arranged this very bouquet, just two weeks before. My sister was then apprenticing at UCSC Farm and had invited me to gather a bouquet for Renee, a new mother. Stunned, I saw my bias. Flowers seemed frivolous, when I was on the revolutionary-edge of organic food growing in 1980.

That was the incident that changed my life, it was okay to love flowers as I always had. After getting my Horticulture degree, I apprenticed at Camp Joy in Boulder Creek, CA. I learned to sow seeds in wood flats;  tend young seedlings in the greenhouse; and plant them in double-dug raised beds.

Twice a week, before the sun rose over the mountain ridge, we harvested flowers and placed them in large tin cans in the shade of the gazebo. I was taught that the key to selecting young flowers was in the reproductive parts. I became skilled at noting if a flower’s stamens were moist with fresh pollen or not. Daisy-like flowers, with their disk and ray flowers were easy, once the secret was revealed. Bending down to look closely at the yellow center one could see if the rings of tiny flower parts were all open, if so then the flower was old. But if just a couple of outer rings of disk flowers were open, it was prime for harvesting.

The day I purchased my 20-magnification hand lens, the world of insects opened up. Looking through this loupe was like landing on a planet. By placing the lens close to my face, my hand on my cheek bone to steady the lens, I moved in close,  a spaceship landing on a  miniature  floral world. The intricate textures of leaves, flowers and seeds were mesmerizing. I peered deeply into a flower chamber,  translucent in color, while male and female flower parts became giant. I imagined myself a tiny creature crawling over these exquisite sculptures.

Honey bees on Phacelia

I had to study insects in the horticulture program, after all the little buggers ate our crops. But we also learned of beneficial insects–predators and pollinators. There was  humor in considering the caterpillar as a juvenile delinquent chomping on the parsley leaves, but then when the caterpillar metamorphosed into the Swallow-tail Butterfly, it pollinated flowers like a mature, contributing citizen.

Getting to know insects became part of understanding the garden ecosystem. Like a bird-enthusiast with binoculars, I sought insects with my lens. This requires patience! At first recognizing the different creatures based on their anatomy—wings and mouth parts being essential clues, eventually I moved on to noting their behavior.

Over the years I have watched green lacewings laying eggs; each on a solitary stalk. These predators are so voracious, the emerging young would eat the surrounding eggs if they were not out of the way. Also, I have seen lady bug larvae that look like giant Gila monsters gobbling up aphids. And no lie, I have watched aphids pop out live babies.

Lady bug larvae

Learning about pollinators in my backyard offered me the chance to slow down, and become curious. Did you know that a butterfly can taste with its feet? That when it lands on a petal that has nectar-bearing flowers that its siphon-like tongue unfurls? I have seen this. It takes patience, but watching insects is a form of miniature wildlife viewing.

Bees can see colors invisible to the human eye. Foxglove flowers have ultraviolet circles around maroon spots, marking a trail to lure pollinators deep into the trumpet bloom where a reward of pollen and nectar await.

The honey bee is but one of many kinds of bee. Native to the Mediterranean, and introduced around the world, it is a generalist, pollinating many flowers. And yet, it shares a characteristic with all bees that make them the premiere partner for flower pollination—floral fidelity. This means on any given foraging trip they only gather pollen from one species. Efficient for the insect and fundamental for the plant to produce seed, bees are the most important group of insects.

Scientists now know that bees are a keystone species–creatures necessary for the survival of other organisms in an ecosystem. Keystone species are referred to as the glue that holds a system together–without them an ecosystem may not be resilient enough to adapt to climate change. There are native flowers that depend on one or two types of bee to pollinate them.

Also, bees and other pollinators are responsible for food crop pollination. According to the USDA, bees, both honey and native are responsible for the pollination of 75 percent of fruits, vegetables, and nuts in this country. Another way to look at it is one out of every four bites of food can be traced back to pollinator services.

Jim Nelson at Camp Joy, a beekeeper, told me something I never forgot. “Imagine yourself tiny, the size a bee. As you approach a flat-topped white yarrow, a Sedum Autumn Joy, or a sunflower, you would see an  entire field of flowers.” A bee’s-eye view of the world makes me want to plant these flowers and patiently watch the insects that come foraging.

Selecting Shrubs at the Nursery

Most garden centers are temporary holding places for potted landscape plants. Freshly delivered plants from a wholesaler tend to be healthier than shrubs sitting in the yard overwinter. During dry spells in summer, note if the plants are getting watered or if the potting soil is dried out. Avoid plants that look like they have been sitting too long at the nursery.

Foliage

At the garden center, look at the foliage of the plant you are interested in. Sometimes it helps to step back and note all the plants of the same kind in pots. Look at the color. Is the overall color dark or bright green? (Of course, some plants are bred for other colored foliage including burgundy or yellow.) Avoid browning, yellowing, or wilting foliage. Are there pale or dark spots? Is the one you want fresh and healthy? A couple of sad leaves are okay—here we are looking at the overall health. Even if it is on sale, it is not worth it, unless you love tending sick plants or are a skilled gardener. Starting with the healthiest plants creates a vibrant garden.

Roots should be firm and white, not mushy or brown. They should mostly fill the pot but not be completely root-bound. A web of young roots filling the pot is okay but not thicker roots. Often at planting we use a knife to cut off slices of the rootball to allow new growth to spread out.

Structure and Overall Form

Now look at the woody stems of this young shrub. Do they join at the base? Sometimes several separate young plants are potted together to give the impression of a healthy big plant. Is it worth the price if your plant is really several juvenile ones packed together?

If the plants are healthy individuals, look at the way the stems are growing. Sometimes the plant is misshapen because all the pots were packed together and can be pruned once you get it home. Other times if you hunt through the offered plants you can find one with more uniform branching. It is worth taking the time to examine several potted shrubs. In any event, once you get the shrub home and dig a hole for it, turning it around in the hole can reveal its most attractive side to face out.

Asparagus

Asparagus shoots are emerging–here is a crop to test our commitment to delayed gratification!  Some clients have told me they tried growing asparagus but gave up. This perennial vegetable requires a dedicated bed and will produce for decades if well-tended. Growing asparagus well is time-consuming; let’s look at what it takes. One trick is to prepare the planting site well in advance.

 Preparing the bed: Diligently remove all perennial weeds and prevent them from getting established. Add lots of organic matter and water deeply until the plants are  established. If the soil is heavy clay,  prepare a raised bed. Wait a couple of years before harvesting to allow the plants to get established.

Harvesting: Begins for a couple of weeks in the third year. Snap or cut the shoots at the base. After about five years, harvest for almost 8 weeks or as long as the shoots are vigorous and finger-wide. Stop harvesting before emerging shoots are spindly. By allowing the fronds to grow and nourish the plant, we  prevent the plant from losing vigor.

The plants are either male or female. They are sold in nurseries as 1-year old crowns. All-male varieties have the advantage of bigger shoots. Growing them from seed means you will also have slender female plants that put more energy into producing red fruits and seed. Be sure to remove volunteer seedlings so they don’t crowd out the initial crowns. In the autumn after the plants turn yellow, cut them to the ground.

Staking: Do you lean more to the aesthetic or very efficient gardening mode? An asparagus crop is a prime candidate for edible landscaping with its ferny leaves. Stake individual plants or use a horizontal trellis (used for growing long-stemmed flowers) to allow the ferny fronds to sway a bit.

 If you have a no-nonsense, efficient approach to the garden then plant them in a row and place wood or metal posts at both ends. Once the plants are tall and start to bend, string a line from post to post and pin the plants in as the plants mature. A month later twine another string about a foot or two above the first to hold them in place. In any event, asparagus is a delicious addition to the garden.

Mason Bees: A Natural History

Honey bees, the most popular bee species, with their matriarchal colony and delicious golden product are but one kind of bee. Before the European colonists came with hives, there were no honey bees in this country. Forgotten pollinators are the mostly unseen bees and other insects that live among us. Such keystone species are the glue that holds ecosystems together. Honey bees come from dry lands around the Mediterranean and are not inclined to forage in cool weather. This makes them unreliable pollinators for orchards during our damp and chilly Pacific Northwest springs. One type of native bee that thrives in our climate is known as the mason bee. This bee does exist on the Olympic Peninsula. Tinker Cavallero argued with me that I should not be introducing mason bees that were not native here. I went ahead because I wanted the assurance that my trees would be pollinated. (How often do we make choices that are good for us individually but not necessarily good for the planet?) after discovering how mismanagement of mason bees can be more harmful than beneficial, I decide not to buy more.

Raising mason bees requires providing clean nesting boxes. Ten years ago we learned that ‘bee hotels’ were breeding grounds for disease. If you insist on raising them use tubes with straw inserts that can be disposed. Better yet, use native plant stems or other hollow plant stems. In the next article I will provide more information. In the meantime, learn about our native bee populations by checking out a great book by our local native pollinator expert, Eric Mader. Attracting Native Pollinators

I wrote the following after much research. I wanted to understand the life history of mason bees. Insect watching for me is akin to bird watching; it’s another way to deepen a sense of place.

Natural history of a mason bee, Osmia

Her active life as an adult lasts no more than four weeks, and in that time, she may lay 30 eggs. Although this one Osmia only lives a short time, other mason bees continue to emerge until May, time enough to pollinate the apples and pears even if the weather is windy and cool.

It is springtime in Puget Sound. The days have been warming up consistently to above 50 degrees. Osmia, a mason bee awakes from its dormancy. This adult female is sequestered within a tunnel; a place that has been home for almost eleven months; from egg, to larvae, to pupae. Now she lies inside the clay abode, a fully formed adult with six legs folded beneath, while wings wrap over her pinched-waist and abdomen. The once-spacious tunnel is snug. She stretches one leg.

The fresh air of spring penetrates the mason bee’s solitary chamber, and stirs her metabolism. The urge to leave the cocoon grows stronger and she begins chewing her way out. Once out of the cocoon, she chews through the walls of clay that separates her from the outer world then crawls toward the light through other chambers recently evacuated by her siblings.

As she emerges from the tunnel, the light of day hits the mason bee. This metallic blue bee is almost a half-inch long, about the size of a honeybee, but more robust. She is covered in black hairs. To the uninitiated, she could be mistaken for a housefly. But her antennae are long and her eyes are definitely sleek, not bug-eyed like flies. Not only that, but she has two sets of transparent wings, whereas flies appear to have one.

Soon after she flies from the nest, a male approaches her. He has emerged a few days before from an adjacent tunnel. He is smaller and unlike the female, his abdomen is smooth, not covered in hairs; he does not contribute to pollination. After meeting his need for food by foraging for pollen his hormones urge him to mate. Not long after that he dies. After mating, the female bee’s job is to locate a nest site.

The fertilized bee goes looking for nourishment in the form of pollen and nectar. Bees forage through a sense of smell and sight. Scent plumes released by flowers attract her from afar. As Osmia draws close the flower reveals colors in the ultraviolet end of the spectrum that indicate where the pollen is. The earliest spring natives providing the bees with pollen include Indian plum and flowering currant.

Once fortified, she flies within a 300-foot radius of where she emerged, searching for a suitable nesting site. She may stay close to her home cavity–often mason bees are gregarious, or she may disperse. This Osmia is looking farther afield for a nesting site.

In the wild that would be an above ground cavity, maybe a hollow twig—brambles or elderberry twigs could work–or an abandoned insect burrow in a tree trunk.

A protected site is what she seeks. A patch of exposed soil should not be too far away.

The best nest site for Osmia would warm up early from the sun but be protected from rains. Here on the Quimper Peninsula, a bit of land thrust out on the northeast edge of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, late winter rains come from the south and can be driven by wind.

She needs a tunnel about six-inches long for the brood she will lay. The diameter should be ¼  – 3/8 inch. In addition, this bee needs something to seal the brood chamber. Just as a mason requires a certain mixture of binder and moisture for his mortar to set, Osmia will need to find moist soil. Sand won’t work.

The mason bee flies into many potential cavities looking for the right home. Plants flattened in the winter are potential sites. Hollow perennial flower stems would be fine, just something that is not much bigger than her body. In the garden she might choose raspberry canes or Joe Pye weed. The bee hoovers before a potential cavity and then moves on. Now she sizes up a hollow stalk, grips the edge with her hind legs, folds her wings and enters. A moment later she backs out. The tunnel is just right. This bee does a zigzag flight dance memorizing the location and surrounding landmarks, before starting the next chapter of her short life.

Now that she has found her nest, her brood work begins. In March the earliest blooms in the orchard are Asian plums and then European plums. Back to the flowers, Osmia brushes up against pollen as she sips nectar. Minute hairs on her abdomen catch the pollen. The nectar gets regurgitated when she flies back to her nest.

The mason bee brushes the pollen off with her legs and mixes it with nectar to form a nutritious cake for each egg. It could take as many as twenty trips to gather enough pollen to form one ball of pollen; and then she lays an egg on it. The pollen cake within the chamber will dwarf the egg and provide the worm-like bee larvae with all the food she needs. Just as butterflies have complete metamorphosis and grow from caterpillar, to pupal cocoon, to butterfly, so too all bees undergo complete change.

Once she deposits her egg on the pollen ball, she seeks mud to seal off this compartment. In this way she forms a linear tube of four or five egg chambers. The ones farthest from the entry will all be female. Carrying the mud between her mandibles and front legs she returns to the chamber allowing enough space for the offspring to mature into a full adult. She releases the mud, packs it down, and flies off for more mud. Taking about ten trips to build one partition, wall building can take all day. If the weather conditions allow and the necessary food and mud are close by, the mason bee might lay two eggs on a particular day.

iStock photo closeup of a female blue mason bee, Osmia caerulescens.

Her active life as an adult lasts no more than four weeks, and in that time, she may lay 30 eggs. Although this one Osmia only lives a short time, other mason bees continue to emerge until May, time enough to pollinate the apples and pears even if the weather is windy and cool.

Larvae will emerge from an egg in a couple of days. This blind little worm will grow to about half an inch long after consuming the pollen cake in ten days. Without leaving its brood chamber it then spends most of its life in a cocoon waiting for next spring.

Adult mason bees activity lasts from March to May in the Pacific Northwest. Although this bee only lives a short time, other mason bees continue to emerge until May, time enough to pollinate the apples and pears even if the weather is windy and cool.

Larvae will emerge from an egg in a couple of days. This blind little worm will grow to about half an inch long after consuming the pollen cake in ten days. Without leaving its brood chamber it then spends most of its life in a cocoon waiting for next spring.

Adult mason bees activity lasts from March to May in the Pacific Northwest. Although this bee only lives a short time, other mason bees continue to emerge until May, time enough to pollinate the apples and pears even if the weather is windy and cool.

BULLET SIDEBOX

Xerces Society is a nonprofit organization that protects insects and other invertebrates. Consider their suggestions for garden maintenance. Pick one or two suggestions and try them.

 

5-Steps to Healthier Pollinator Habitat

1. Mulch less. Leave areas of dirt that can become mud.

2. Consider letting fall cleanup wait until spring. Perennial flowers & ornamental grass with hollow stems are most useful in horizontal position.

3. Leave tree stumps.

4. Place brush pile in unobtrusive places.

5. Make a new nest every other year and hang next to the old. Bundle up garden stems of raspberry or Joe Pye Weed, Eutrochium. Or use bamboo canes ¼ inch wide and cut behind the node. Discard the old one after the adults break through the mud and before they re-use the same tubes.

Instead of mason bee hotels, think camping shelters.

Last spring mason bee emerging in center. Top tubes are natural stems from Joe-Pye-Weed
Left to right: Joe-Pye-Weed stem harvested in autumn is better than center two harvested this following spring. Right is a disposable straw insert and far right is tube.

As an aside: Joy-Pye-Weed, formally known as Eupatorium now Eutrochium, is an attractive pollinator plant. It blooms in July and provides nectar for honey bees and others. One of the reasons I love it–besides it being a dramatic, predictable perennial flower–is that it grew wild in Massachusetts in wetlands and as a teenager I would harvest it for dried flower arrangements.

April in the Garden 2024

Springtime can be overwhelming. Everywhere we look something is calling out in need of attention. One of my garden mentors, Beth Nelson from Camp Joy Gardens, always said, “The garden is forgiving. If we don’t get it right this year, we can try again next year. Be patient with yourself.” Enjoy the time in the garden. Here are suggestions for where to begin:

  • General garden maintenance
  • Liquid fertilizer like fish and seaweed solution benefits plants more quickly in cold soil than the dry fertilizer.
  • Control weeds before they flower.
  • In the edible garden
  • Time to pull back straw mulch to allow the soil to warm.
  • Plant bare-root strawberries and raspberries
  • Transplant vegetable starts
  • Cover pea bed with floating row covers
  • Direct sow root crops like radish, spinach, chard, lettuce, mustard greens
  • Top-dress beds of perennial crops and flowers with well-aged compost.
  • Landscape care
  • Read our post about pruning flowering shrubs
  • Replenish alder chips or arborist-chip mulch. Be careful with trunks of shrubs & trees—no mulch within six inches. (Mulch can keep the trunks moist and allow disease organisms to breed.)
  • Add lime to lawns.
  • Learn to appreciate the many benefits of weeds in the lawn—think polyculture!
  • Mow grass leaving it about 2 1/2 inches tall.
  • Hand pick & destroy slugs and snails. Learn to recognize snail eggs.
  • Sprinkle Sluggo or other nontoxic slug bait

Vegetable Starts

Start seeds indoors if you can grow healthy starts that are sturdy and dark green. Inadequate light causes the seedlings to grow spindly and fragile. Indoor lighting is dim compared with sunshine. Even a cloudy day offers more light than a typical florescent grow-light.

Once they have germinated, place the seedling trays outside on nice days. At first place them in a protected bright spot and then a day or two later, set them in full sunlight. And a light breeze will help then get sturdier. Also, by placing them outside, and bringing them in at night, the seedlings have begun the harden-off process. Otherwise, if they are greenhouse grown and then directly placed in the cold garden soil, the young plants can go into shock rather than grow.

The goal is to transplant them to the garden when they have two or three sets of true leaves. A grey, overcast day helps prevent transplant shock. If all this is too much effort, buy the vegetable starts. You can always sow your own seeds later in the season. We are so lucky here in Jefferson County to have excellent seedlings available from Midori Farm and Red Dog Farm. They are available now at the PT food Coop and Chimacum Corner Farmstand. They carry an array of vegetable varieties that thrive here.

Pruning

Shrubs that produce vigorous replacement shoots are good plants to learn pruning. These  flower on one-year old wood. If you only shear them, they never flower well. Also there will be a lot of thicker woody stems. Remove any crossing branches and weak or dead stems.

Proper pruning is a combination of thinning out—removing the branch all the way back to a larger branch, and heading back—what hedge shears are good for. Most novices just do heading back cuts. The problem is the plant grows into a dense hedge with just an inch or two of vegetation on the surface. A healthy pruning jobs increases the depth of foliage by allowing light and air in to the shrub.

Examples are flowering currant, mock orange (or Philadelphus), forsythia, kerria and flowering quince. Wait until the flowers are faded before pruning.

Making Lists

Springtime can be overwhelming. Everywhere we look something is calling out in need of attention. One solution is making lists. Walk through the garden and write down anything that needs attention. Next set priorities. Sometimes fifteen minutes is enough time to tackle a crucial task. To borrow a term from construction industry, consider making a punch list. Keep a running list of projects that require additional help or some expertise. At the end of the day, it is satisfying to cross off items. Of course, sometimes I enjoy puttering in the garden, skipping around in a relaxed fashion. This can be a form of horticultural therapy where enjoying the clouds skittering across the sky, or watching insect behavior is just as satisfying as accomplishing something.

Serviceberry: A native tree for the edible landscape

Serviceberry, Amelanchier alnifolia, is a multi-trunk small native tree reaching about 15 feet high and about 10 feet wide. It is an attractive addition to the garden—in spring it is covered with white blossoms and the foliage turns a butter yellow in autumn. Edible fruits are a favorite with many birds, including the cedar waxwing. There is nothing like a small flock of these delicate birds in ones tree to stop the mind!

Serviceberry does best in a sunny spot but will tolerate partial shade. To encourage growth water it regularly until it is established, then only water during the driest months. Since its native range is from Alaska to California, it should be hardy even in the toughest winters.

Botanical name: Amelanchier alnifolia

(ame-e-LANG-kee-er al-ni-FO-le-ah)

Working around the tree in summer I might nibble on the delicious tiny fruits, but mostly I leave them for the birds. Around here that include  waxwings, goldfinches, thrushes and towhees, among others. The tree provides nectar for hummingbirds. Washington Native Plant Society offers much more information on using them for restoration.

About 25 years ago, I started a nursery bed for young bare-root trees from the conservation district. I planted them in rows that were easy to water and weed; after a couple of years, I transplanted them around my property. A minimum amount of pruning to shape them has really helped their form. Since they are in the rose family and a relative to our common fruit trees, understanding their growth patterns was straightforward. A row of four trees on the property line is a cheerful herald of spring. These photos were taken in 2015. Since then I forgot to water them during some of our summer ‘heat-domes’ and they have struggled. I plan to water deeply once or twice a month in August and September as needed.

Although I have only grown serviceberry seedlings, there are named varieties that have been bred for fruit and landscape appeal. ‘Regent’ serviceberry is a desirable edible landscape plant that was developed in North Dakota. It grows about 8 feet tall and has delicious berries.

March In the Garden 2024

Signs of Spring

crocus in spring

Crocus

snowdrop flowers in winter

Snowdrop

Species crocus, known as snow crocus can withstand a late snow and cheerfully rebound. This Tuscan Crocus, botanically known as  Crocus etruscus Zwanenburg, once planted will naturalize. Here they are in the orchard. They bloom about the same time as Snowdrops. The trick to encouraging their growth is to hold back on mowing or weed-eating until the foliage has died down completely. I buy bulbs locally or from an old bulb house https://www.johnscheepers.com

Spring may seem distant after the snow on Feb. 27, but the sun is getting higher in the sky and birds are returning. I weeded the asparagus this morning  and got to see up close just what is changing. This is a good time to remove any perennial weeds from the asparagus bed. Th trick is to move gently around the asparagus to avoid nicking the new spears forming underground.

The crowns of perennials are starting to show signs of foliage: angelica, lemon balm, even the California fuchsia (Zauschneria)  Along with the cool season weeds of deadnettle (Lamium) and shotweed (Cardamine hirsuta) are seedlings of several delightful annual flowers including Love-in-a-Mist.

Around here spring starts blooming  in the woods with Osoberry. I love the way tips of branches end in two leaves like palms held together in prayer or the anjali mudra.

Pruning Raspberries

An easy place to learn pruning is in the raspberry patch. Unlike fruit trees, there are not so many variables. The stems, known as canes are fairly simple and easy to cut with hand clippers. No saw or loppers are required. Raspberries tend to be vigorous so if you make a mistake and remove a lot it’s okay. Thin out canes to about 4 inches spacing Remove any spindly or diseased canes. Below are before and after photos.

Raspberry: There are two types of raspberry, summer-bearing fruits and autumn-bearing fruits.

The summer-bearing varieties (Cascade Delight and Tulameen) require two seasons to fully mature. The first-year leafy young canes shoot up from the roots; but not until the second season do these canes produce flowers and fruits. Some people cut these So, after the second-year canes fruit, cut them to the ground. Last year’s leafy canes are topped. These will produce flowers in early summer and abundant fruits in July for at least a month. For more on raspberries

Fruit Trees

Now is the time to prune apples, pears and other fruit tress, except plums and cherrys. In a future post I will demonstrate in a video how to prune. I love it and think of pruning as a form of sculpture. If you want to learn now, I suggest getting a lesson, watching a video or volunteering with our local gleaners. If you are not familiar with the gleaners, you must check out what they are doing. i have volunteered with them from time to time and it is so much fun!

https://www.foodbankgrowers.org/master-gardener-gleaner-pruning-demo

One of the best spring chores in the orchard is foliar feeding. By spraying liquid fertilizer directly to the new foliage, and even the branches, nutrients are absorbed faster than when added to the soil. This is partly because the ground is still cold. Foliar feed in the spring when the buds are beginning to burst with about 1/4 inch of green showing. Then again when the flower buds are pink and later when the petals drop. Spray early in the day to avoid wetting pollinators. This recipe was created by orchard expert Michael Phillips. Besides the nutrients provided by the liquid seaweed and fish fertilizer, neem is an amazing tree from the tropics that can disrupt insect pest reproductive cycles. Mix the ingredients in a pump sprayer. A Backpack sprayer is most efficient if you have many fruit trees.

2 gal H2O

2T Neem

2T Kelp

5T Fish Emulsion

Growing Peas

Fresh peas off the vine are one of the delights of a home garden. We often rush to get the seeds sown, but the ground can be too cold. The seed languishes and is vulnerable to rot and disease. Cutworms and slugs can attack the emerging seedling. Mid- or late-March will be soon enough. If your soil is heavy clay you might want to wait another week.

Sprouting the seed indoors gives it a jumpstart. Either soak overnight and set on paper until the sprout is ½ inch long or grow the seeds in small pots and transplant when the first two sets of true leaves emerge. If the seedlings were grown indoors, be sure to set the pots outside and bring them back in at night for a couple of days or more to let them harden off. (If you are late getting your pea crop going, we are extremely fortunate to have a selection of vegetable starts from Midori Farm and Red Dog Farm.

Favorite Pea Varieties  

Snap peas: Sugar Snap, Sugar Ann and Oregon Sugar Pod

Snow peas: Oregon Giant and Avalanche

Shelling peas: Arrow and Lincoln.

Winter Storm Damage

Frost damaged leaves can appear water-soaked or they might turn dark brown and black, then drop off.

After a relatively mild December, plants were not hardened off, but still growing. Many evergreen shrubs have leaves that are brown and dropping. Although some look awful, restrain the urge to cut back the shrubs. Patience. Experts advise waiting until May or June to determine if plants are dead or just weakened. Plants like hebe from New Zealand, hardy fuchsia and some Mediterranean subshrubs like rosemary can look bad but will probably recover.

 

Arctic Blast

Thirty-three years ago, I worked here as gardener when we were hit with a severe arctic blast. Plants that looked terrible did recover slowly. The recent storm in January was very hard on gardens. Although some evergreen shrubs look awful, restrain the urge to cut them back. Patience. Experts advise waiting until May or June to determine the level of damage. The plants are weakened and will require extra attention in the coming year. Consistent watering based on their need, compost and some fertilizer will help. See this post on foliar spray seaweed. Some less hardy plants including  newer introductions from New Zealand and Australia may die all the way to the ground but the roots could still be alive.

WEATHER

Cliff Mass, a meteorologist at Univ of WA has a blog that can teach you about our local weather https://cliffmass.blogspot.com/

He is not always right and his politics are questionable, but I read him regularly because his weather forecasting is good and he provides clear explanations about weather and climate. In the future, the winter weather event we should be alert for is the Oscillating Polar Vortex. That’s when an arctic blast rushing down from the Fraser Valley can slam the Olympic Peninsula.

Watering plants (Or using a hand-pump sprayer to spray as a foliar feed) with seaweed fertilizer provides micronutrients that can help all plants be more resilient. Research shows that kelp fertilizer strengthens plants to withstand abiotic stresses including drought and cold. I have used seaweed liquid fertilizer (Maxicrop) for 40 years and it is an essential part of my gardening. Seaweeds are rich in plant hormones that trigger the plant’s own hormonal production. And finally, seaweed extract  strengthens the plant through its impact on the microbiome in the soil around the roots.

Foliar Feeding with Liquid Seaweed

Foliar feeding is a way of getting nutrients to the plants through openings in the plants leaves. It is faster than applying the same product to the roots. Use a hand-pump sprayer or backpack sprayer and apply in mornings or when it is not windy. Seaweed fertilizer provides micronutrients that can help all plants be more resilient. Research shows that kelp fertilizer contributes to abiotic stresses including drought and cold. Seaweeds are rich in plant hormones that trigger the plant’s own hormonal production. And finally, seaweed extract  strengthens the plant through its impact on the microbiome in the soil around the roots.

What We Need to Thrive: A braided essay

Part 1

Last night I opened a crock of kraut-chi and scooped out some fermented veggies to add to my dinner plate. As I looked into the crock of fermenting vegetables: cabbage, carrots, daikon radish, onion, ginger and hot peppers, I thought of something uplifting: Fermenting vegetables are like so many things in life—what we need to thrive is right there if we can only recognize it. At times when I become overwhelmed by the plague of problems we face from declining health to far reaching issues of species extinction and climate change, I will strive to remember this.kraut ingredients2

Food is important to me. I grew up in a household where preparing and serving food was a creative act bonding the family together. Holidays were celebrated around a table overflowing with family recipes. I actively began growing my own vegetables at eighteen and went on to study organic horticulture, taught apprentices the art and science of organic gardening, then moved to the mid-west as a newlywed to start an organic market garden. After getting breast cancer in the late 1990’s I became fanatical about my diet. I remember eating lots of soy products like tofu, miso, and tempeh because nutritionists claimed that soy was a wonder food, rich in phytoestrogens.

But then soy foods were everywhere. I became skeptical when my parents started buying processed foods like soymilk, soy-butter, and soy-nutritional bars. All that processed food seemed too fake, even if it was soy. Finally I settled on a diet based mostly on vegetables, grains and beans with small amounts of dairy and rare occasions of meat. Coffee and chocolate—not always in moderate amounts— rounded out the diet. I decided this was good enough and turned my attention to sufficient exercise, deepening my meditation practice, and developing other healthy habits.

About ten years later Michael Pollan’s book, In Defense of Food: An eater’s manifesto spelled out what I intuitively knew. Nutritional science is used to deconstruct food to components and then to market food substances that have ingredients added or deleted. We are bombarded with health alerts about good food and bad food according to nutritional studies. When a food is determined to be bad, the industry develops a food product with a lower fat content or a higher fiber content. Now it seems many people suffer from a myriad of health issues stemming from chronic low-grade inflammation. New research points to a culprit, the industrial food complex.kraut bowls

Diets based on industrial food—those products from the grocery store that as Michael Pollen says “Your grandmothers’ wouldn’t recognize as food”—change the microflora of our digestive track that can lead to disease. One way to address this is a return to real whole foods. Another is to eat fermented foods like yoghurt and sauerkraut. People around the world have always included fermented foods in their diet, primarily because it is an easy way to preserve food. Now research shows these foods reinforce the healthy microflora of our digestive system.

Since I don’t own a cow, but have grown lots of cabbage, sauerkraut was a natural choice for making fermented foods. An Asian version is kimchi. A hybrid called kraut-chi, is my favorite sauerkraut with added vegetables and spices. Unlike yoghurt or bread, there is no need to add a starter. Just provide the right conditions: no oxygen, dark coolness, and a little salt and the healthy bacteria lying dormant on the cabbage grow.kraut pot

Part 2

Stillness. I remember a moment from my teens. It was an early spring, and the snow was finally gone. My father sat beaming in a lawn chair with eyes closed, face uplifted to the cold midday sun of early spring. I could see him from the upstairs window as I dusted one of the bedrooms, doing my Saturday chores. I opened the window and called out, “Looks nice out there.”

“Jeanmarie, come sit beside me, feel the sun.”

Together we sat in silence. The heat from the asphalt driveway warmed me and I could smell dried pine needles. My father’s ability to be transported by the vast silences within nature and his willingness to share that stillness was a value I easily resonated with. This is the ninth anniversary of his death and I am acutely aware of my loss. Being content with what is, finding joy in the simplest pleasures, these are gifts I received from my father. From him I learned I could get high listening to music on the radio, or by savoring the wild beauty of the crashing surf. Neurobiologists are finding that through simple practices we can utilize these moments to help us overcome negative thought patterns.

This cutting edge research is a long way from mainstream medicine. Neurobiologists use MRI and other technology to confirm how our thoughts have the power to influence our health. Stress-reduction meditation exercises are nothing new, but now studies are documenting how mindfulness practices can decrease depression. Participants report an increased sense of connection to something larger than oneself. Many researchers exploring mind-body medicine are themselves interested in the connection to the spiritual realm, especially Buddhism.

Buddhist teachings are more a practical psychology than a set of religious beliefs that define a cosmology. What we think of as the Buddhist religion is the overlay of rituals and beliefs added over the last 2,500 years. As ancient Buddhism spread to different countries, people attracted to the teachings adapted it to their indigenous beliefs, thus it blossomed into Vajrayana in Tibet; Theravada in Southeast Asia; and Mahayana in China, Korea and in Japan, where it is known as Zen. The Buddha wasn’t interested in questions of what happens after we die, or determining who created the universe or in describing God; instead he wanted to show people a way to be content. In the west today this stripped down version is often described as Buddhist Psychology.

When I was 19 years old I lived for nine months at the Lama Foundation, an eclectic spiritual community in the Rocky Mountains of northern New Mexico. When I lived there in 1978 people embraced different spiritual paths—from Hindus to born-again-Christians, as well as strict Muslims. The Lama Foundation hosted retreats of spiritual teachers that would draw hundreds of participants. I worked in the garden and the kitchen. The retreat that changed my life was taught by Joseph Goldstein and Jack Kornfield, and Sharon Salzberg, teachers credited with bringing Vipassana meditation to the West. During the 10-day retreat I learned a practice that has stayed with me for 40 years.

One of my favorite neurobiologists is Rick Hanson, author of Buddha’s Brain. By studying parts of the brain that are activated by different experiences and responses, Hanson researches the underlying neural causes of discontent and happiness. He has tapped into the brains of Buddhist monks and long-term Buddhist practitioners to determine what part of the brain is active during deep contentment. From there he has gone on to show how we can work with the brain’s neuroplasticity and take charge of restructuring it.

It is not just a matter of simplistic positive thinking that involves ignoring what we don’t like, but noting where our attention is. By listening to our internal dialog, it is possible to notice when our attention strays from the present. These gaps in attention get filled with discontent, confusion, and grasping or pushing away an experience. We can be triggered by an experience and become fearful or angry and then go on to weave stories about the experience that escalate the discontent. We can fill up our lives with this negative bias. In fact, the negative reactivity was a survival mechanism that humans evolved for survival. Many people have a tendency to scan their environment for potential negative situations. Most of us have “Velcro for negativity and Teflon for positivity.” Hanson suggests a technique for rewiring our brains called HEAL.

H – Have a positive experience.

E – Enrich it. Savor it for 10-30 seconds.

A – Absorb it. Imagine the experience like soaking up the sunshine, or install it in the brain. Practice deeply and regularly for lasting change.

L ­– Link to replace negative thoughts. Remember one of these positive experiences in the midst of negative thoughts and replace it with a sense of well-being.

Hansen suggests that this practice can create a sense of core needs already being met. This procedure can target sections of the brain with the mental activity and deliberately stimulate neurons to rewire and eventually change the brain.

Part 3

Lately I’ve been haunted by a chilling photograph of Chinese agricultural workers in a pear orchard. They are poised on branches of the fruit trees, hand-pollinating the blossoms, because the natural pollinators have been wiped out. In order to have fruit, people in that area must do the work of bees. Is this our future?

Many gardeners are familiar with the plight of European honeybees. Colony Collapse Disorder happens when adult bees leave the hive en masse. Although this problem has stabilized, in the winter of 2012 -2013, US beekeepers on average lost 45% of their hives from a myriad of problems. Many nurseries sell perennial flowers (even ones sold to attract pollinators) that have been doused with a lethal pesticide called neonicotinoides. Petitions are circulating demanding that Lowes, Home Depot and other chain nurseries change these toxic practices.

The forgotten pollinators are essential contributors to human well-being. Many of our food crops require insect pollinators to move pollen from the male flower parts to the female part. The pollinators are often rewarded with nutrient-rich nectar. Insects and flowering plants co-evolved together; a fascinating story of mutual benefits.

For now our gardens have enough wild pollinators to ensure healthy crop production. The good news is there are 4,000 species of native bees in North America. More than 50 species have been recorded in agricultural fields of tomatoes, watermelon, and sunflower.

I love watching pollinators as they work the flowers; I find almost as much joy watching them as I do bird-watching. Think of it as mini-wildlife watching. The lives of insects are on full display for the patient observer. Over the years I have observed predator-prey relationships, insects mating and laying eggs. To an insect, the multi-head flowers of yarrow or angelica are virtual fields of blossoms. With a hand lens I have watched butterflies unfurl siphon-hose tongues when they land on a flower (the taste-buds on their feet can recognize a nectar source.)

Just like we have landscapes to attract birds, we can encourage the native pollinators. Non-toxic gardens are the most important.

Specific practices include:

  • Planting native wildflowers and common herbs for a profusion of blooms,
  • Eliminating pesticide use including botanical insecticides,
  • Allowing the margins of the garden to remain undisturbed natural habitat, for nesting sites including tall grass and weeds, brush piles, logs and bare soil.

It is easy for me to be overwhelmed by the destruction of the planet. Finding a way to move forward has been a general motivation for all I’m doing with my life—maybe it’s the generation I was born into, maybe it’s my father’s influence.

Just yesterday I took some photos of an Italian prune plum, one of the first trees to bloom this spring. As I angled for a good shot, I noticed several kinds of bees and even some flies buzzing the flowers. I savored each moment, consciously holding the experience a little longer than normal. After about six photos I decided I had what I needed. The blue sky behind the white blossoms was an essential part. I downloaded the digital photos and adjusted them before posting on Facebook. I studied each one to select my choice. Throughout the last 24 hours, when I have been plagued by mourning and doubts, I brought to mind the image of hope and well being of the plum in bloom, exercising my neurons. I can imagine my father smiling and marveling at the interconnections and beauty.

When we practice healthy ways of being for body, mind and spirit, we naturally develop a sense of composure, fertile ground for healthy habits. These habits in turn help us align our values in a way that promotes greater presence, a sense of place where we share the planet.

 

Sea Buckthorn or Seaberry

So you’ve heard of this shrub, Sea Buckthorn, and think you want to try growing it, but you’re not sure if it is a good match for your place? Well, let’s take a look. The reasons to consider it are that as a landscape ornamental with willow-like silvery foliage and attractive orange berries, this is a tough, drought-tolerant plant. A large shrub or small tree, Sea Buckthorn can withstand coastal winds and grows in most soils.

As a permaculture plant Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides, has lots to offer: it restores degraded sites through preventing soil erosion and fixes nitrogen with the help of soil microbes. The edible and medicinal berry is an up-and-coming super-food that goes by the name Seaberry.

There are a couple of factors to think about, especially if you like to practice right plant-right place. If you want to keep it in polite company within the garden as an 8-foot shrub, purchase a named variety from a nursery. A popular choice is Titan, a Russian variety. Be sure to purchase a male too. You can find it and several other varieties at https://www.onegreenworld.com/ and http://www.raintreenursery.com/

Buy a variety and you get a known quantity; buy open-pollinated seedlings and the plants will be variable in size and shape. They can be very thorny. Since Sea Buckthorn is like Holly (dioecious), the female plant requires a separate male plant to produce fruit. One male can pollinate five females. With seedlings you might wait five years until flowering when you can sex the plants. Some seedlings are sold after they have flowered and are sold as female or male.

Sea Buckthorn trees at Ilana Smith's in Port Townsend (note female tree on left)
Sea Buckthorn trees at Ilana Smith’s in Port Townsend (note female tree on left)

Ilana Smith in Port Townsend has grown these two seedlings in her garden for about 25 years. Although she had never heard of the plant at the time, she was curious to try them. She trained them into attractive small trees, planted in the lawn. Mowing over the years has suppressed suckers (leafy sprouts from the roots).

Windbreaks or hedgerows call for many plants, and neither uniform size nor fruit production is critical. Seedlings are also much cheaper, maybe four dollars instead of twenty-five dollars. This farm in Maine has a great blog about seedlings and they sell both plants and seeds: http://www.jiovi.com/plants.html

How invasive is Sea Buckthorn? In vegetated environments with decent soil it will not become a problem because seeds won’t sprout and seedlings can’t survive with shade. Where it does spread is subarctic regions of the world and deserts of sandy soil with low fertility. It has become a problem in Alberta, Canada where one plant can colonize acres. On the other hand, the fibrous and suckering roots bind sand and add nitrogen, so it has been used extensively in China for reforestation and in the Netherlands for dune restoration. For more information on risks see this site connected with University of Wisconsin, Madison http://uncommonfruit.cias.wisc.edu/seaberry-sea-buckthorn/

I spoke to Phil at One Green World and asked how vigorously the varieties will grow. He told me that at their test farm in Molalla, Oregon there are several twenty-year-old shrubs. The largest varieties are about 12 to 15 feet tall but have not spread more than 6 to 8 feet wide. He recommends Titan for the west coast.

Sea Buckthorn can grow almost anywhere as long as it gets sunlight. If it gets less than half-a–day

sunlight, Sea Buckthorn seedlings will wither. Interior branches on mature plants die out from shading. Seedlings destined for a windbreak could be raised in a nursery bed and kept weeded to prevent shading from surrounding vegetation.

To be continued as Part 2 Seaberry Super-food, berry production